This journey takes place in the stunning landscapes of Huascarán National Park. Nevado Mateo is an ice climber’s dream, or even a beginner’s perfect start. This is a peak with fantastic glacier sections, surrounded by Peru’s majestic Cordillera Blanca. This mountain stands at approximately 16,896 feet (5,150 meters), therefore, make sure you acclimatize before trekking here. Nevado Mateo is considered a medium-level climb, ideal for those looking to get their first taste of ice climbing. Below, I’ll cover everything you need to know about climbing Nevado Mateo, including tips for preparation, the thrill of the ascent, and essential information to help make your experience as unforgettable as mine!
Reaching the Base: Leaving Huaraz
The journey to Nevado Mateo starts bright and early, most climbers set out around 3 a.m. from Huaraz. Most people completing this hike will stay in Huaraz. It’s a bustling town and trekking hub that serves as the starting point for many expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca. I booked the tour through my hostel, Krusty Hostel. We had three people on our tour and we all booked them at different places. That appears to be typical with most trips from Huaraz. There’s tons of tour companies, but they all go together on the trips. The drive from Huaraz to Punta Olímpica, the trailhead, takes about two hours. Be prepared for winding through the stunning landscapes of Huascarán National Park. If you get car sick, this is very windy!! Even before reaching the glacier, the scenic drive offers dramatic views of snow-covered peaks. The drive really helped with the anticipation for the climb ahead.
The Ascent: Rocky Trails and Glacier Hiking
Starting the Hike
From Punta Olímpica, the hike begins on a rocky trail that gradually leads you toward the glacier. The first part of the hike is not bad as you are just walking. It’s essential to come prepared with a sturdy pair of hiking boots and layered clothing. It was very very cold on the mountain, remember, you’re ice climbing so it has to be cold. You will heat up quite a bit while hiking, but make sure you have warm clothes. The hike to the glacier takes about two hours and steadily gains altitude, adding to the physical demands.
Transitioning to Ice Climbing Gear
Once we reached the edge of the glacier, it was time for us to transition into ice-climbing equipment. We had helmets on the whole time, but we added on our harnesses, crampons, and took out our ice axes. All of this gear is essential. The company we went with provided us with this gear so we did not bring our own supplies. We even tried on the boots the night before as they supply the boots. I will say, the process of gearing up heightens the sense of adventure and anticipation. I was SUPER excited as you can see in my video. Our harnesses were linked by a rope that was connected to our guide. The crampons helped significantly by providing traction on the ice. With all the gear, you’ll be ready to tackle the glacial terrain. This was my first time using these tools, and while it was challenging, it added an exciting layer of technique and skill to the climb!
The Ice Climb at Nevato Mateo
As you move onto the glacier, the real ice-climbing begins. The ascent is a mix of steep, icy slopes and occasional crevasses, and every step requires focus. Using the ice axe to grip and the crampons to stabilize, you’ll feel both exhilarated and challenged. This section of the climb demands strength and technique but is achievable even for first-timers with a moderate fitness level. The surrounding views are breathtaking—white snow stretches endlessly, and towering peaks rise in every direction, offering the perfect backdrop.
Snow and Changing Conditions
On my climb, I was surprised by the amount of snow covering the glacier, which added to both the beauty and the difficulty of the experience. Snow-covered trails can be slippery and physically taxing, so take it slow and steady, staying focused with each step. Weather conditions in the Andes can be unpredictable; on my climb, we were enveloped in fog at the summit at first, but it eventually cleared, revealing the peaks and valleys around us.
Reaching the Summit of Nevado Mateo
The final push to the summit of Nevado Mateo typically takes around 3 to 4 hours from the start, depending on the pace and weather. As you approach the top, the sense of accomplishment builds with every step. At the summit, standing at 16,896 feet, you’re treated to panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca. On clear days, you can see neighboring peaks like Huascarán and Chopicalqui, making you feel both humbled and exhilarated by the scale of these incredible mountains. Spending a few moments at the top, surrounded by the grandeur of these peaks, is an unforgettable experience.
Descent: Making Your Way Back Down
After soaking in the summit views and taking photos to capture the moment, the descent begins. Descending a glacier requires caution, as the steep icy slopes can be tricky to navigate. Guides often lead climbers down slowly, step-by-step, ensuring everyone maintains footing and balance. The return journey to Punta Olímpica takes around two hours, giving you time to reflect on the adventure and relish the satisfaction of reaching such an incredible height.
Essential Tips for Climbing Nevado Mateo
1. Prepare for Altitude
At nearly 17,000 feet, the altitude on Nevado Mateo is no joke. Spend a few days in Huaraz to acclimate before the climb, and consider tackling lower-altitude hikes to help your body adjust. Altitude sickness can affect anyone, so staying hydrated and taking your time on the ascent is crucial.
2. Dress in Layers and Bring Weatherproof Gear
Weather in the high Andes can change rapidly, with temperatures dropping significantly as you approach the glacier. Dress in layers to stay warm, and bring waterproof gear, as snow and ice can make the climb damp. Gloves are also a must for handling the ice axe comfortably.
3. Go with a Professional Guide
For safety, it’s essential to go with a certified guide who is experienced in glacier and high-altitude climbs. They’ll provide all the necessary equipment, guide you through challenging sections, and offer crucial safety support. The expertise of my guide was invaluable, especially when dealing with the technical sections of the glacier.
4. Take Your Time and Enjoy the Journey
This is a climb where the journey is as memorable as the destination. Allow yourself to move at a steady, comfortable pace, taking breaks to enjoy the surrounding beauty. The climb is physically demanding but incredibly rewarding, so remember to look up and appreciate the view along the way.
Why Climb Nevado Mateo?
Climbing Nevado Mateo is both a mental and physical challenge, making it ideal for those seeking adventure at altitude. For first-time ice climbers, the ascent offers a great introduction to technical climbing, with sections that require skill but are accessible for those new to the sport. The surrounding peaks, glacier landscapes, and sense of accomplishment at the summit make Nevado Mateo a climb that leaves lasting memories.
Final Thoughts: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Adventure
Ice climbing Nevado Mateo is not just about reaching the summit—it’s about the thrill of scaling a glacier, the challenge of navigating the ice, and the beauty of being surrounded by towering Andean peaks. The experience tested me in ways I hadn’t anticipated but rewarded me with memories and photos I’ll treasure forever. If you’re considering an adventurous climb in Peru, Nevado Mateo is absolutely worth the effort. With every step, you’ll be reminded of the power and beauty of the Andes, making this climb one of the most exhilarating experiences in the Cordillera Blanca.
-TTT
